Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Cruising Florida's Southwest Coast

On Monday, January 21st, we left Ft. Myers headed for Sanibel Island, which would be our first stop after completing the Okeechobee Waterway and before heading down Florida’s southwestern coast toward the Keys. By all accounts, we were fortunate to snag a reservation at Sanibel Marina, conveniently located at the southeastern tip of the island less than 20 miles from Ft. Myers across San Carlos Bay and within sight of the Sanibel Island Causeway Bridge. We arrived just in time for a tasty lunch (fried oyster sandwich and Mahi sandwich) at the popular onsite restaurant, Gramma Dot’s Seaside Saloon.





The next day we walked a few blocks across the island to a rather low key beachfront resort area and strolled along the shell covered beach where we noticed numerous dead fish at the water’s edge. We were later told that this was the result of a recent bout of “red tide” caused by a higher than normal “bloom” of a certain type of algae which kills the fish.




The numerous birds inhabiting the area didn’t seem to mind. In fact, some of them were enjoying a free meal.




We ended up staying three days at Sanibel Marina just enjoying the pleasant tropical setting, awaiting favorable winds for the next leg of our journey which would be in open water of the Gulf of Mexico.



On Thursday, January 24th, we ventured back out into San Carlos Bay and turned south, leaving Sanibel Island behind us. Conditions in the Gulf were almost ideal as we cruised offshore toward Gordon Pass, where we would enter the Gordon River toward Naples, our next destination. The only problem we were experiencing was caused by the sun reflecting off the water in front of us, making it difficult to see (and avoid) any crab traps that might be in our path. Heading in a southerly direction in winter, the sun remains in front of you all day as it arcs across the southern sky.



After entering Gordon Pass and turning north on the Gordon River, it was smooth cruising all the way to Naples.



The closer we got, the more homes we saw lining the riverfront, some cheek-by-jowl Mediterranean types, others more palatial looking.




Although we had a reservation at Naples City Dock (the municipal marina), they really didn’t have room for us when we arrived.



Luckily, we had a backup plan (always have a Plan B), and just continued on a short distance further to Naples Boat Club, which was happy to accommodate us.





An extra added bonus at this marina is their heated swimming pool.



The next day we explored the waterfront area on foot, stopping for lunch at The Boathouse Restaurant overlooking Naples Bay. Ordering from the appetizer menu, we shared delicious Baked Shrimp Cargot, tender Bacon Wrapped Scallops, and yummy Barbequed Short Ribs.





After two pleasant days at Naples and with the weather in our favor, we decided to move on. But upon departure as we glanced back for one final look at our marina, we almost wished we were staying longer.



However, with weather forecasts predicting increasing winds within a few days time, we knew that we dare not tarry too long or we would be stuck for who knows how long awaiting a favorable weather window for our eventual crossing of Florida Bay to the Keys. So, off we went back out into the Gulf of Mexico, turning south into the sun once again.



As we headed south past Marco Island, cruising further off shore to avoid the Cape Romano Shoals, the swells grew to about 2-3 ft. in height, and white caps were prevalent. This combined with the sun in our eyes made it difficult to maneuver around the ever present crab traps. So we were relieved when it was time to turn east heading for Indian Key Pass in the Ten Thousand Islands area and the approach channel to Everglades City, our next port of call.




This area marks the beginning of Everglades National Park, home to abundant wildlife, including various species of water fowl, like this flock of white pelicans standing on a sandbar, as if posing for the folks in the tour boat.



Pretty soon signs of human habitation began to appear, and we realized we must be entering the outskirts of Everglades City.



As we approached the famous Rod & Gun Club (now a popular waterfront inn) where we had a reservation at their dock, it became evident that we would have to pass on by, then turn around and come back into the current before attempting to pull into the dock.




No one answered our radio call or subsequent phone call to them as we approached, but a nice man did catch a line for us. When we asked him if he was an employee or just a helpful fellow boater, he said, “Neither. I’m the father of the bride. My daughter’s getting married right here in just a little while. I hope you enjoy the wedding!” The ceremony was an outdoors affair, and we ended up being part of the waterfront atmosphere. And we were serenaded all evening by the music at their wedding reception just a few steps away at the inn.



Although we would have liked to stay at Everglades City another day to explore the town, weather concerns caused us to move on again the following morning. So back out we went along the channel through the Thousand Islands, only unfortunately it was now low tide, and we did bump the bottom once along the way. I guess local knowledge would have been helpful here.



With just one more stop along Florida’s Gulf Coast before we would reach Florida Bay, we headed for the entrance to the Little Shark River, just north of Cape Sable. About five crab-trap-dodging hours later, we gratefully dropped the anchor in a 12 ft. deep cove just opposite marker “R4” off the main channel in the Little Shark River. A little while later two sailboats, apparently traveling together, arrived and anchored a short distance further upstream from us. After listening to them talking to each other on the VHF radio, all was quiet again and we settled in to enjoy this pristine setting in God’s Country, and to watch the sun go down.



 

No comments:

Post a Comment