Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Boca Chita, the Rest of the Story

When we left Stuart, we knew that we wanted to get at least as far south as Boca Chita Key before turning around to head north again. Why?  Because we had been there five years ago on someone else's boat and vowed at that time that one day we would return, but this time cruising on our own boat. So, when we entered that beautiful harbor, it was the fulfillment of a dream.


Another good thing about this location is that it is just south of Hurricane Harbor and No Name Harbor on the southern end of Key Biscayne, both of which are popular departure points for the Bahamas.  So, we figured that we could spend a day or two at Boca Chita Key and then go to No Name Harbor to await an appropriate weather window to make the crossing.

The day that we arrived was beautiful, just perfect for a swim.  So we gathered our snorkeling gear and walked to the little beach on the ocean side of the island.  The current here can be swift, but it was low tide, so no problem.


As we headed back to the harbor after our swim, we noticed a familiar looking boat arriving.  Sure enough, it was none other than the Miami Mermaid, the trawler upon which we had first come to Boca Chita in March of 2006, when we did Trawler School with Captain Bob (http://www.trawlerschoolcharters.com/).  Now we had really come full circle.


So, what's special about Boca Chita as a destination?  It's part of Biscayne National Park, and as such is maintained by the National Parks Service.  Although there are no electrical hook-ups or fresh water available, restrooms are provided for use of park visitors. There's space for about thirty boats of varying sizes to tie up in the protected harbor either for the day or overnight for up to 14 days, for a daily fee of $20 ($10 with a senior pass!). On shore, there are campsites, picnic tables, and barbeque grills.  Visitors carry out all of their own trash.

But this island also has an interesting history.  In the late 1930's it was purchased by Mark Honeywell, who developed it as a family retreat, including building an ornamental lighthouse at the harbor entrance. According to information presented on a placque, after his wife died suddenly as a result of injuries sustained in a fall, he lost interest in the island and sold it. However, the placque doesn't provide any details of that fall.  Rumors abound, including claims that she committed suicide by jumping off the lighthouse after discovering that her husband was having an affair, or even worse, that she was pushed!


Park rangers provide additional information on their daily visits to the island.  (Of course, their version of events denies the rumors.) They also open the lighthouse for visitors, which provides an excellent opportunity for a bird's eye view of the island.


The day after our arrival at Boca Chita, the wind began to build.  A resident flock of seagulls and terns provided us with an accurate reading of wind direction each day as they sat on shore near the seawall, heads pointed into the wind.


Day after day we experienced sustained winds of 15-22 mph, with gusts up to 30 mph. To see some of the wind's effects, look at the American flag in the photo showing our arrival and compare it with the one taken on our last day from the top of the lighthouse. Since we were tied up securely to the bulkhead, we were comfortable and happy to stay right where we were until conditions improved.  Obviously, these were not the right conditions for a crossing to the Bahamas. In fact, marine weather reports indicated that swells in the Gulfstream were ranging between 8 and 12 feet.  On the positive side, the wind kept the mosquitoes and no-see-ums in hiding, so we had a wonderful time.

Now, it's time to turn north.  We are beginning to meet other cruisers who are in the process of doing the Great Loop Cruise, and we don't want to be left behind. So, when the weather finally became more favorable for cruising, we left Boca Chita and headed to Fort Lauderdale and Las Olas Marina, where we are spending a few days before proceeding north again.

 

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