Beginning the South Florida Loop

Back in 2011 when we completed America’s Great Loop Cruise, we did the version which cuts across through central Florida’s Okeechobee Waterway from Ft. Myers to Stuart, leaving out more southern portions of Florida’s west coast and the Keys. Our goal this winter is to complete what we are calling the South Florida Loop.

With that goal in mind, on Friday, January 11^th, we threw off the lines once again and headed south to Stuart, FL and the intersection of the Atlantic Intra-Coastal Waterway (ICW) with the Okeechobee Waterway, stopping off for a few days at our sister marina, Loggerhead - Stuart, before heading west up the St. Lucie River toward Lake Okeechobee and then on to Ft. Myers, essentially the same route we had followed in November of 2011, only in reverse.

On the morning of January 15^th, with a reservation secured at Indiantown Marina only 24 miles away, we anticipated a very short cruising day. As it turned out, however, it took us over 4.5 hours to complete the trip. First, we were delayed by a railroad bridge (usually open) which closed just as we approached, awaiting a very long freight train which seemed to take forever to arrive and then to pass. Then we cruised on along the St. Lucie River, enjoying the scenery, both man-made and natural.

Next came the St. Lucie Lock which slowly raised us up about 13 or 14 ft. before depositing us into the St. Lucie Canal.

On we went, with our bow cutting smoothly through the water’s glassy surface.

When we approached the entrance to the Indiantown Marina and called them on the VHF radio for docking instructions, we were told that another boat with mechanical problems was currently in the spot reserved for us along the fuel dock, and we would have to wait until it could be towed back to its regular slip. This left us treading water out in the canal for over half an hour before finally receiving the all clear to enter the marina. Since we really didn’t have another option within 35 miles, we just took it in stride, and were quite happy with the pleasant setting once we were secured at the dock.

Our destination the next day was Clewiston on the other side of Lake Okeechobee, with two possible routes to get there. One route hugs the southern shore (the Rim Route), a good choice when the wind is up, and the other more direct route crosses the lake in open water. With hardly a whisper of a breeze, we opted for the shorter Open Water Route, saving ten miles of cruising (and the fuel that consumes).

But first we had to pass under the Port Mayaca Railroad Lift Bridge (with only 7 ft. vertical clearance when closed), which we found open upon approach.

Just a short distance ahead we entered the Port Mayaca Lock, which would lower us just one foot before depositing us in Lake Okeechobee, the second-largest freshwater lake located wholly in the continental United States (after Lake Michigan).

For the next 25 miles we skimmed across the lake’s almost perfectly smooth surface, encountering only one other yacht along the way, before entering the approach channel toward Clewiston, where the Open Water Route and the Rim Route merge.

Just one more lock (almost always open) to pass through before arriving at Rowland Martin’s Marina and Resort, just in time for lunch at their dockside open-air bar and grill. This place is a hub of activity for locals and tourists alike, whether its for fishing on Lake Okeechobee or tour boats combing the nearby swamps in search of alligators.

For us it was a pleasant spot to tie up overnight before continuing west on the Okeechobee Waterway toward Ft. Myers. The only downside of a visit to Clewiston, which bills itself as the “Sweetest Town in America,” is that when they are burning the nearby sugarcane fields, your boat gets covered with black ash (as ours did).

One of our goals on this cruise back across the Okeechobee Waterway to Florida’s west coast was to take our time, stopping along the way at places we had bypassed in the fall of 2011 when we were finishing up our 10.5 month Great Loop Cruise. So far, that was exactly what we were doing, and with those sentiments in mind we left Clewiston the following morning without a fixed idea where our next stop would be, only the determination that it would be someplace we had not visited before.

Cruising along behind a nice Mainship called “Phase II,” which had pulled out of the marina right ahead of us, we spent some time chatting on the VHF radio with fellow cruisers Dave and Laurie who, like us, were not sure how far they would go that day. Even though we hadn’t officially met, it was pleasant to have a buddy boat to travel with (going through locks together, waiting for bridges to open), and someone else to share ideas and information with about our various options.

After six hours and 54 miles of shared cruising experiences, we gave in to an enticing ad in our Waterway Guide for Rialto Harbor Marina located in Alva, while our traveling companions opted to continue on to Ft. Myers, another 15 miles away. What a unique little gem we discovered at Rialto Harbor, hidden in an oxbow off the Caloosahatchee River at Mile 119 on the Okeechobee Waterway.

This family owned and run establishment is nestled in a quiet little harbor with room for only 10-12 boats (2 transient slips), each with its own garden area, on a 12 acre plot of land covered with lush natural vegetation, amid immaculately clean horse stables.

Even the restroom/shower (“VIP Lounge”) was a perfect little gem.

After two very pleasant days at Rialto Harbor, on January 19^th we rejoined the Waterway, cleared our last lock, and moved on to the City of Ft. Myers Yacht Basin, conveniently located right in the heart of the newly revitalized waterfront area of the city, where we could easily walk to various restaurants to sample the local cuisine (which was quite good).

We had hoped that on this trip we might meet some 2013 Loopers, and indeed we did when we pulled in to the dock right in front of the “Nanseann.” Rik and Nancy Robinson began their Great Loop Cruise at their home port of Green Turtle Bay in Grand Rivers, KY, which was our favorite stop along the interior rivers portion of the trip.

Before leaving Ft. Myers we also reconnected with fellow 2011 Loopers, Bob and Lynda Krueger (now living in nearby Cape Coral), who we first met when their trawler “Erika Lin” pulled into West Basin Marina where we were docked at Benton Harbor/ St. Joseph, on Lake Michigan. We had a great time reliving some of the wonderful experiences we had shared along the Loop.

We also enjoyed another blast from the past when we got together with Pat and Charley McMahon, friends we had met back in the 1990’s through our connections with the European League of Middle Level Education, while living and working abroad (we in the Czech Republic and they in England). They now winter in Punta Gorda, not far from Ft. Myers. What a great time we had catching up on old times.

When the sun set in the west that evening, we felt refreshed, rejuvenated, and ready to move on to new experiences along Florida’s west coast. So far, we had been retracing (in reverse) a route we had already cruised back in 2011, but the following day we would begin our journey through new waters.

　

　

　

　

　

Road Trips

Since our last posting in mid-July, the Docker’s Inn has been living up to her name, remaining securely tied up to the dock at Loggerhead Club and Marina - Vero Beach, providing us with a very comfy residence on the water in Florida. That does not mean, however, that we have stayed put that entire time. Since we have our car here with us, we have made a few road trips.

First, in mid-August we drove down to Lauderdale-By-The-Sea (next to Fort Lauderdale). Taking advantage of off season rates, we stayed at an oceanfront lodging called Little Inn by the Sea. What a treat to be able to walk right onto the beach and go for a swim in 80 something degree ocean water.

Then in late September, following another trip to our condo in Columbia, SC, we decided to drive up to the mountains of North Carolina to celebrate the arrival of fall. At an elevation of over 5,000 ft., Beech Mountain, NC is the highest town east of the Rockies. Located in the northwestern corner of North Carolina in the heart of the Blue Ridge Mountains, the long range views of peak after peak into neighboring Tennessee and Virginia are just breathtaking.

As we had hoped, the fall colors were already beginning to appear, especially on the slopes surrounding Buckeye Lake, one of the prettiest parts of Beech Mountain.

This is a great place for hiking enthusiasts, with several easily accessible and well maintained trails available. We decided to check out the Falls Trail near Buckeye Lake and were rewarded for our efforts with plenty of natural beauty to enjoy along the way.

Just a short walk from our lodging at the Pinnacle Inn, we discovered the new Bark Park, which is sure to please the doggy lovers among us.

Of course, a trip to Beech Mountain would not be complete without having lunch at Fred’s General Mercantile, whose motto is, “If we don’t have it, you don’t need it!”

As mentioned in an earlier blog entry, one cruise destination on our bucket list is the St. Johns River right here in Florida. Since various ports and attractions along the river are also accessible by car, we opted for a road trip now and a cruise later on at some point.

Unlike most rivers, the St. Johns runs from south to north, beginning somewhere in the swamps west of Vero Beach and running all the way up through Jacksonville and beyond, emptying into the Atlantic Ocean. Our first stop by car was the town of Sanford, located on the southern shore of Lake Monroe. First we had a tasty lunch at Gators Riverside Grill on the eastern side of town where the St. Johns enters Lake Monroe.

Next, we checked out the Monroe Harbour Marina, which will probably end up being our southernmost destination when we cruise the St. Johns.

Its location in the heart of Sanford’s revitalized historic district provides cruisers with easy access not only to a popular waterfront park, but a multitude of shops, restaurants, and sidewalk cafes as well.

By the way, we can highly recommend the German Restaurant on 1^st St., which was in full Oktoberfest mode, including live music and wonderful food and drink.

Heading north from Sanford the following day, we stopped to explore Blue Spring State Park along the eastern shore of the St. Johns River at Orange City. Referred to as a first-magnitude spring, Blue Spring pours over one hundred million gallons of fresh water a day into the St. Johns. With a constant water temperature of 72 degrees year round, this popular wintering spot for manatees attracts many visitors each year who can stroll along a one-third mile boardwalk following the flowing Blue Spring run through a shady native hardwood hammock.

　

Visitors can also swim, tube, snorkel, SCUBA dive, or canoe in the spring waters.

This early in the season, we were fortunate to see at least five manatees up close and personal, including a pair of adults with a young calf in tow. What gentle looking creatures!

Continuing north on Rt. 17 through small towns and marshland, our next destination was the riverfront town of Welaka, a few miles west of Crescent city on CR 309. According to one of our cruising guides of Florida, this tiny burgh is home to the Welaka Maritime Museum, offering “an artisan glimpse of the river’s history with its collection of antique wooden boats in various stages of restoration.” Doing my homework ahead of time, via Google I had located a blog (http://www.favorsgreatloopblog.com/our-new-loop-adventure/welaka-maritime-museum/.) with great photos of this museum, but unfortunately it has apparently closed, so we didn’t get to see it.

So back we went to RT. 17 north, which eventually turned west across the St. Johns River to Palatka, where we intended to check out a couple of possible marinas and spend the night of our second day. We ended up staying at the Quality Inn - Riverfront (listed as Riverfront Inn in our cruising guide), which has an interesting policy that if you rent a room (which also includes breakfast), your boat can stay free at their dock.

After a late lunch/early dinner at the adjoining riverfront Beef O’Brady’s Restaurant (including 2 for 1 pints of draft beer), we decided to leave further exploration of the downtown historic district for another day. The following morning, however, with news of a developing tropical storm heading north toward Florida and the wind already picking up along the St. Johns River route, we opted to cut our road trip short and head back toward Vero Beach to prepare the Docker for the impending onslaught.

Cutting southeast across the state toward the Atlantic coast, we stopped briefly in Cocoa (near Cape Canaveral) to check in with cruising friends who are wintering at Cocoa Village Marina before beginning their own Great Loop Cruise next spring. Although this marina does provide some protection from unfavorable weather, their 50 ft. live-aboard vessel was still moving around quite a bit as the wind speed continued to increase.

With only a relatively short distance to go, we drove the rest of the way south along scenic coastal Rt. A1A, arriving back “home” at Loggerhead Club and Marina - Vero Beach by mid-afternoon on Tuesday, October 23^rd. Now, having stocked up on food and supplies and doubled up on the lines securing us to the dock, we are experiencing tropical storm conditions (with lots of rockin’ and rollin’) caused by Hurricane Sandy, currently crossing the northern Bahamas just east of us.