Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Cruising Florida's Southwest Coast

On Monday, January 21st, we left Ft. Myers headed for Sanibel Island, which would be our first stop after completing the Okeechobee Waterway and before heading down Florida’s southwestern coast toward the Keys. By all accounts, we were fortunate to snag a reservation at Sanibel Marina, conveniently located at the southeastern tip of the island less than 20 miles from Ft. Myers across San Carlos Bay and within sight of the Sanibel Island Causeway Bridge. We arrived just in time for a tasty lunch (fried oyster sandwich and Mahi sandwich) at the popular onsite restaurant, Gramma Dot’s Seaside Saloon.





The next day we walked a few blocks across the island to a rather low key beachfront resort area and strolled along the shell covered beach where we noticed numerous dead fish at the water’s edge. We were later told that this was the result of a recent bout of “red tide” caused by a higher than normal “bloom” of a certain type of algae which kills the fish.




The numerous birds inhabiting the area didn’t seem to mind. In fact, some of them were enjoying a free meal.




We ended up staying three days at Sanibel Marina just enjoying the pleasant tropical setting, awaiting favorable winds for the next leg of our journey which would be in open water of the Gulf of Mexico.



On Thursday, January 24th, we ventured back out into San Carlos Bay and turned south, leaving Sanibel Island behind us. Conditions in the Gulf were almost ideal as we cruised offshore toward Gordon Pass, where we would enter the Gordon River toward Naples, our next destination. The only problem we were experiencing was caused by the sun reflecting off the water in front of us, making it difficult to see (and avoid) any crab traps that might be in our path. Heading in a southerly direction in winter, the sun remains in front of you all day as it arcs across the southern sky.



After entering Gordon Pass and turning north on the Gordon River, it was smooth cruising all the way to Naples.



The closer we got, the more homes we saw lining the riverfront, some cheek-by-jowl Mediterranean types, others more palatial looking.




Although we had a reservation at Naples City Dock (the municipal marina), they really didn’t have room for us when we arrived.



Luckily, we had a backup plan (always have a Plan B), and just continued on a short distance further to Naples Boat Club, which was happy to accommodate us.





An extra added bonus at this marina is their heated swimming pool.



The next day we explored the waterfront area on foot, stopping for lunch at The Boathouse Restaurant overlooking Naples Bay. Ordering from the appetizer menu, we shared delicious Baked Shrimp Cargot, tender Bacon Wrapped Scallops, and yummy Barbequed Short Ribs.





After two pleasant days at Naples and with the weather in our favor, we decided to move on. But upon departure as we glanced back for one final look at our marina, we almost wished we were staying longer.



However, with weather forecasts predicting increasing winds within a few days time, we knew that we dare not tarry too long or we would be stuck for who knows how long awaiting a favorable weather window for our eventual crossing of Florida Bay to the Keys. So, off we went back out into the Gulf of Mexico, turning south into the sun once again.



As we headed south past Marco Island, cruising further off shore to avoid the Cape Romano Shoals, the swells grew to about 2-3 ft. in height, and white caps were prevalent. This combined with the sun in our eyes made it difficult to maneuver around the ever present crab traps. So we were relieved when it was time to turn east heading for Indian Key Pass in the Ten Thousand Islands area and the approach channel to Everglades City, our next port of call.




This area marks the beginning of Everglades National Park, home to abundant wildlife, including various species of water fowl, like this flock of white pelicans standing on a sandbar, as if posing for the folks in the tour boat.



Pretty soon signs of human habitation began to appear, and we realized we must be entering the outskirts of Everglades City.



As we approached the famous Rod & Gun Club (now a popular waterfront inn) where we had a reservation at their dock, it became evident that we would have to pass on by, then turn around and come back into the current before attempting to pull into the dock.




No one answered our radio call or subsequent phone call to them as we approached, but a nice man did catch a line for us. When we asked him if he was an employee or just a helpful fellow boater, he said, “Neither. I’m the father of the bride. My daughter’s getting married right here in just a little while. I hope you enjoy the wedding!” The ceremony was an outdoors affair, and we ended up being part of the waterfront atmosphere. And we were serenaded all evening by the music at their wedding reception just a few steps away at the inn.



Although we would have liked to stay at Everglades City another day to explore the town, weather concerns caused us to move on again the following morning. So back out we went along the channel through the Thousand Islands, only unfortunately it was now low tide, and we did bump the bottom once along the way. I guess local knowledge would have been helpful here.



With just one more stop along Florida’s Gulf Coast before we would reach Florida Bay, we headed for the entrance to the Little Shark River, just north of Cape Sable. About five crab-trap-dodging hours later, we gratefully dropped the anchor in a 12 ft. deep cove just opposite marker “R4” off the main channel in the Little Shark River. A little while later two sailboats, apparently traveling together, arrived and anchored a short distance further upstream from us. After listening to them talking to each other on the VHF radio, all was quiet again and we settled in to enjoy this pristine setting in God’s Country, and to watch the sun go down.



 

Sunday, February 17, 2013

Beginning the South Florida Loop

Back in 2011 when we completed America’s Great Loop Cruise, we did the version which cuts across through central Florida’s Okeechobee Waterway from Ft. Myers to Stuart, leaving out more southern portions of Florida’s west coast and the Keys. Our goal this winter is to complete what we are calling the South Florida Loop.

With that goal in mind, on Friday, January 11th, we threw off the lines once again and headed south to Stuart, FL and the intersection of the Atlantic Intra-Coastal Waterway (ICW) with the Okeechobee Waterway, stopping off for a few days at our sister marina, Loggerhead - Stuart, before heading west up the St. Lucie River toward Lake Okeechobee and then on to Ft. Myers, essentially the same route we had followed in November of 2011, only in reverse.

On the morning of January 15th, with a reservation secured at Indiantown Marina only 24 miles away, we anticipated a very short cruising day. As it turned out, however, it took us over 4.5 hours to complete the trip. First, we were delayed by a railroad bridge (usually open) which closed just as we approached, awaiting a very long freight train which seemed to take forever to arrive and then to pass. Then we cruised on along the St. Lucie River, enjoying the scenery, both man-made and natural.





Next came the St. Lucie Lock which slowly raised us up about 13 or 14 ft. before depositing us into the St. Lucie Canal.



On we went, with our bow cutting smoothly through the water’s glassy surface.



When we approached the entrance to the Indiantown Marina and called them on the VHF radio for docking instructions, we were told that another boat with mechanical problems was currently in the spot reserved for us along the fuel dock, and we would have to wait until it could be towed back to its regular slip. This left us treading water out in the canal for over half an hour before finally receiving the all clear to enter the marina. Since we really didn’t have another option within 35 miles, we just took it in stride, and were quite happy with the pleasant setting once we were secured at the dock.





Our destination the next day was Clewiston on the other side of Lake Okeechobee, with two possible routes to get there. One route hugs the southern shore (the Rim Route), a good choice when the wind is up, and the other more direct route crosses the lake in open water. With hardly a whisper of a breeze, we opted for the shorter Open Water Route, saving ten miles of cruising (and the fuel that consumes).

But first we had to pass under the Port Mayaca Railroad Lift Bridge (with only 7 ft. vertical clearance when closed), which we found open upon approach.



Just a short distance ahead we entered the Port Mayaca Lock, which would lower us just one foot before depositing us in Lake Okeechobee, the second-largest freshwater lake located wholly in the continental United States (after Lake Michigan).





For the next 25 miles we skimmed across the lake’s almost perfectly smooth surface, encountering only one other yacht along the way, before entering the approach channel toward Clewiston, where the Open Water Route and the Rim Route merge.





Just one more lock (almost always open) to pass through before arriving at Rowland Martin’s Marina and Resort, just in time for lunch at their dockside open-air bar and grill. This place is a hub of activity for locals and tourists alike, whether its for fishing on Lake Okeechobee or tour boats combing the nearby swamps in search of alligators.







For us it was a pleasant spot to tie up overnight before continuing west on the Okeechobee Waterway toward Ft. Myers. The only downside of a visit to Clewiston, which bills itself as the “Sweetest Town in America,” is that when they are burning the nearby sugarcane fields, your boat gets covered with black ash (as ours did).





One of our goals on this cruise back across the Okeechobee Waterway to Florida’s west coast was to take our time, stopping along the way at places we had bypassed in the fall of 2011 when we were finishing up our 10.5 month Great Loop Cruise. So far, that was exactly what we were doing, and with those sentiments in mind we left Clewiston the following morning without a fixed idea where our next stop would be, only the determination that it would be someplace we had not visited before.



Cruising along behind a nice Mainship called “Phase II,” which had pulled out of the marina right ahead of us, we spent some time chatting on the VHF radio with fellow cruisers Dave and Laurie who, like us, were not sure how far they would go that day. Even though we hadn’t officially met, it was pleasant to have a buddy boat to travel with (going through locks together, waiting for bridges to open), and someone else to share ideas and information with about our various options.





After six hours and 54 miles of shared cruising experiences, we gave in to an enticing ad in our Waterway Guide for Rialto Harbor Marina located in Alva, while our traveling companions opted to continue on to Ft. Myers, another 15 miles away. What a unique little gem we discovered at Rialto Harbor, hidden in an oxbow off the Caloosahatchee River at Mile 119 on the Okeechobee Waterway.









This family owned and run establishment is nestled in a quiet little harbor with room for only 10-12 boats (2 transient slips), each with its own garden area, on a 12 acre plot of land covered with lush natural vegetation, amid immaculately clean horse stables.









Even the restroom/shower (“VIP Lounge”) was a perfect little gem.



After two very pleasant days at Rialto Harbor, on January 19th we rejoined the Waterway, cleared our last lock, and moved on to the City of Ft. Myers Yacht Basin, conveniently located right in the heart of the newly revitalized waterfront area of the city, where we could easily walk to various restaurants to sample the local cuisine (which was quite good).



We had hoped that on this trip we might meet some 2013 Loopers, and indeed we did when we pulled in to the dock right in front of the “Nanseann.” Rik and Nancy Robinson began their Great Loop Cruise at their home port of Green Turtle Bay in Grand Rivers, KY, which was our favorite stop along the interior rivers portion of the trip.



Before leaving Ft. Myers we also reconnected with fellow 2011 Loopers, Bob and Lynda Krueger (now living in nearby Cape Coral), who we first met when their trawler “Erika Lin” pulled into West Basin Marina where we were docked at Benton Harbor/ St. Joseph, on Lake Michigan. We had a great time reliving some of the wonderful experiences we had shared along the Loop.

We also enjoyed another blast from the past when we got together with Pat and Charley McMahon, friends we had met back in the 1990’s through our connections with the European League of Middle Level Education, while living and working abroad (we in the Czech Republic and they in England). They now winter in Punta Gorda, not far from Ft. Myers. What a great time we had catching up on old times.



When the sun set in the west that evening, we felt refreshed, rejuvenated, and ready to move on to new experiences along Florida’s west coast. So far, we had been retracing (in reverse) a route we had already cruised back in 2011, but the following day we would begin our journey through new waters.